Patrick McDowell, British Sustainable Fashion Designer, Debuts Their “Portraits Of A Painter” SS25 Collection Inspired By Queer Artist: Glyn Philpot.
Patrick McDowell presents their SS25 collection inspired by the Queer British artist, Glyn Philpot. Illustrating the brand’s commitment to multi-disciplinary creativity, the collection bridges fashion, art and culture.
Patrick McDowell’s appreciation for history saw them dive into the Tate archives to explore the letters written by Glyn Philpot to close friends and family, helping to establish the life behind the artist’s work. McDowell sought out Glyn Philpot’s remaining relatives to gain a personal insight into the life of the eminent artist and bring a sense of authenticity to the collection. After discovering the two contrasting lives Glyn experienced, one of society and status and one of queer identity and true expression, it became clear that the collection should celebrate and fuse both. This season’s collection aims to highlight the reality of many queer people living a dual existence.
This season’s show takes place at Guildhall School of Music & Drama, continuing Patrick McDowell’s partnership from AW24. The immersive runway experience features performances from emerging classical musicians, creating a dramatic atmosphere. The combined fashion show and performance celebrates the arts in the same way Glyn Philpot did in his artworks, depicting varying performing arts from opera to ballet to avant-garde performance.
Continuing the brand’s commitment to nurturing creative education, Patrick McDowell worked to initiate a community project with Tate, highlighting how their archives offer an incredible free resource with the potential to inspire the next generation.
Motivated by the expressive artworks of Glyn Philpot in the 1920s, depicting topics surrounding queer identity and societal beliefs, Patrick McDowell illustrated the story of the artist’s dual life with a commitment to craftsmanship and storytelling. Inspiration for silhouettes are drawn from the most resonant works from the artist, directly influencing the collection looks.
Philpot’s artworks have been re-imagined into garments through painterly prints combined with soft nuanced colours.Printed onto delicate fabrics crafted from fully traceable and biodegradable TENCEL™ fibres. floral motifs and ‘trompe l’oeil’ paint strokes adorn these lower impact fabrics, reflecting how art and fashion can intersect with the modernity of progressive resources and textiles.
As ever McDowell has centred sustainable craft at the heart of the collection. Working alongside the King’s Foundation, Patrick McDowell incorporated the artisanal skills of scholarship students into the design and craft of the garments, creating a much needed space for industry experience and opportunities. Eliza Gomersall, a King’s foundation scholar, meticulously hand embroidered a series of textiles for the collection.
Jewellery was created by Anuka with recycled silver by hand in England. Inspired by the flowers from his most pivotal work the Hibiscus, Patrick’s favourite flower freesia, and Glyn’s sister’s name Daisy.
Vintage knit was unravelled, reconditioned and re-knitted in England by Miranda Mallinson Pocock, a recent knit graduate McDowell met in their capacity as global ambassador for Graduate Fashion Week. A Philpot family wedding gown, kindly donated by Glyn’s great great-niece, Charlotte Doherty, was reimagined for the closing look. Embedding personal stories into the garments and speaking to McDowell’s ability to work sensitively with clients to reimagine their most special pieces, a service they offer at their London studio.
This collection builds on the sustainable values of Patrick McDowell through the preservation and reuse of materials, whilst celebrating the brand’s history in creating show stopping pieces.
Spearheading new innovations in dying processes, McDowell is the first designer to work with bacteria based dye house Octarine to add colour to garments without the use of petrochemicals, achieving black pigment naturally; a rare and exciting development for the industry. Handbags have been created using Mycelium based leather by Ecovative, crafted in London.
Chrome free and naturally tanned leather was sourced from Lineapelle and created by hand at the D’Arienzo atelier in Naples. In a community-minded effort McDowell sourced dead stock silks from London based designer Erdem and long time collaborator Taroni silk.
Natural dyes from Sages London have been used to create fully biodegradable materials and achieve the specific tones from Patrick McDowell’s favourite paintings within Glyn Philpot’s portfolio. High Heels have been supplied by the Italian brand Pinko with classic loafers reminiscent of the artist’s own footwear supplied by Sebago. Classic cotton and silk socks are from premium British sock brand Pantherella.
Creative Director: Patrick McDowell
Musical Director: Gavin Roberts
Lighting & Video Directors: Natalie Jones and Dylan Bate
House Video: Rupert Murray
Sound Design: Gavin Roberts
Makeup: Mac by Dominic Skinner
Hair: Toni and Guy by Elle Page
A SPECIAL THANKS TO
Andy Lavender, Melissa Bonnelame, Sarah Mower, Ali McWatt, Charlotte Doherty, Simon Martin, Holly Mirza, Khabi Mirza, Dan Somner, Ollie Miller, Taz Porter
Credits: © Courtesy of MAXIMILIAN LINZ
