LFW: Roland Mouret is evolving

Roland Mouret, who was once known for his body-conscious creations, put forward more fluid, forgiving silhouettes inspired by the activist and Parkland shooting survivor Emma González and yonic symbolism.

Roland Mouret’s SS19 collection plays with an introvert sexuality that manifests itself throughout the collection. Drawing thematically from the 1974 first softcore porn film Emmanuelle, with its subtext that spoke for women to unapologetically own their sexuality, through to the global call for action presently from movements such as #timesup and #metoo, Roland redefines eroticism and fortitude, ownership and individuality in a way that is empowering to women.

A detailed conversation with the female subject is evident in this collection which is inspired too by the Yonic symbolism (from Sanskrit yoni) seen throughout the work of feminist artist Judy Chicago, exploring the most sensuous motif of the female form through a selection of brooches, necklaces and badges made in collaboration with esteemed artist Mehrnoosh Khadivi of Craftwork Studios.

Roland introduces a collection that features button-down pencil skirts, shoulder baring dresses and high-waisted wide-leg trousers with suggestive lace-up details. Liberation and control is given in the freedom of movement with loose silhouettes and softly tailored power suits. Slits and exposed lace panels offer glimpses of the thighs in stride, whilst ultra-plunging necklines unashamedly alleviate one of the most overtly sexual parts of the female form. Statement looks, in a summery pastel palette with graphic prints and bold stripes, are complimented with sensual silk rope-tie sandals and pointed lace-up mules. Collectively, the aesthetic at times pivots away from sexuality and is instead overcome with a pronouncement of incredible female independence.

Mouret’s evolution of fluidity is reflected in slender, romantic silhouettes that hint at the curves of the body, challenging the aesthetic of a covered body and giving the woman the tools to reclaim the gaze from the observer. A lead in shifting our political culture, women can pursue and inherit strength in creating change. At a time where social, political and gender equality is being challenged, Roland introduces an empowering collection for the contemporary woman whose dynamic voice resonates around the world.

Credits: © Courtesy of Roland Mouret