Emanuel Ungaro | Spring Summer 2017 Full Fashion Show

Ungaro: Fausto Puglisi seized on the Eighties, which has come roaring back in fashion, and he did not edit out the garish bits.

Princess Stéphanie of Monaco was among the inspirations of a younger Fausto Puglisi, who channeled her outré glamor in his spring collection for Emanuel Ungaro.

The designer seized on the Eighties, which has come roaring back in fashion, and he did not edit out the garish bits, clashing lime green with grape purple, and brocade fabrics with florals.

Yet he captured the joie de vivre and racy spirit of the brand in his short, one-shoulder or bustier dresses, occasionally sprouting a huge sleeve, or a ridge of stiff ruffles.

The finlike decorations detailed everything from outseamed, tight leather pants to the shoulders of ladylike bomber jackets in silk gazar. They also jutted up from shoulders to frame the face, recalling a Viktor & Rolf couture collection of yore.

The prettiest looks were the simplest: a glossy off-the-shoulder top and a white wrap skirt, for example, or a one-strap dress with a single ruffle spilling from the hip. Those looks captured Stéphanie’s regal-yet-rebellious allure.

Make up: Val Garland – M.A.C Cosmetics

Hair: Pierpaolo Lai – L’Oréal Paris

Music: Frederic Sanchez

Photos: Patrice Stable – Runway & Details Stefano Rancati – Backstage

Video: Video Gang