Dior presents the Men Fall 2025 Collection
“We were looking at a time when men’s fashion really started to feel global – in many ways, it felt like the beginning of the fashion world we live in today. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Dior exploded in America; I’ve always been fascinated by New York during this period. It’s that collision of Europe and America, Paris and New York, uptown and downtown, preppy and cool, something reflected in fashion, film, the art world and photography during that time. It’s when men’s fashion and fashion designers really started to travel, with the birth of a new, relaxed sartorial style. Something that feels right now as well as then.” Kim Jones
Paris and New York, uptown and downtown, preppy and cool: in the latest Dior Men’s Collection, a dialogue of people, places and statuses transpires with an amalgam of the sartorial styles attached to each. Both celebrating and synthesising a distinct time, the collection encompasses uptown preppy and privileged with downtown fashionable and cool. In so doing, a defined sartorial insouciance is achieved that feels particularly now.
Blurring the distinctions between the formal and the informal, tailoring is approached again by further evolving codes established by Kim Jones as Artistic Director. While the mood is relaxed, an underlying precision and rigour are the foundation of these silhouettes. A sense of sumptuousness is achieved through specially commissioned fabrications, where varying textures co-exist with different weaves, washes and processes utilised. They sit alongside the rigorous detailing in the tailored constructions, where unstructured and structured are contrasted. For instance, the signature strapped jacket metamorphoses, moving from workwear to a more formal world. Utilising the oblique wrap cut, its saturated tan colour and distinct texture are achieved through cold dyeing wool, while its strap is moved to morph into an extended martingale.
Tailoring fabrics are transposed and traverse the world of the collection in its entirety as does the motif of the stripe. From more familiar forms to more unfamiliar outerwear, such as parkas, trenches and baseball caps, tailoring fabrics envelop all. Classic shirting fabrics feature in unconventional forms, such as baseball tops and cotton poplin linings of garments while their stripes are transposed and used both graphically and structurally throughout the collection.
Looks are grounded by the revived B01 matchpoint training shoe, signature derbies and combat boots. Originally introduced in 2002, the B01 is modified with a more comfortable last yet still embraces a lo-fi, sporty mood. The derbies and combat boots are realised in classic men’s sartorial colours with a contrasting workwear look of steel toe caps yet achieved without the use of uncomfortable steel caps themselves. Jewellery also echoes a sense of more sartorial permanence by making sterling silver standard, here in cannage designs, while another motif of the collection overall, the lily-of- the-valley, is featured entwined on a cuban chain necklace, the first of newly launched exceptional pieces in silver that will feature each season.
Bags embrace simplicity in silhouette, colour and attitude. Archetypal styles are utilised such as totes, backpacks, messenger and camera bags while texture is added with embossing in leather or woven materials, particularly with the dior oblique logo pattern. Clothing is also styled with bags from the icons collection, where a sumptuous simplicity is found, hardware is stripped away, and a single discreet Dior logo appears embossed. Here, an unstructured, squashy, insouciance is achieved in plain, large-grained leather with the highest savoir-faire.
Altogether, a sense of ‘vintage with heritage’ is reflected in the approach to the collection as well as in its non-disposability. Eschewing an idea of throwaway fashion, both the quality of fabrications and the timelessness of design reflect a sense of inheritance in Dior clothing and accessories as well as a notion of something to be passed along, of ‘future archive.’
Looks by Jackie Nickerson @jackie_nickerson
Credits: © Courtesy of Dior PR
